Stepping into a Fairytale: San Miguel de Allende
San Miguel de Allende (SMA) has by far been one of the most recommended places to visit while living in Mexico. I made it here for the first time in January 2021 and loved it so much that I came back again in November. When strolling the cobblestone streets you feel like you are in a fairytale. There’s pretty much a church on every other corner, and I’m not sure if it’s a requirement, but almost every building is either painted red, yellow, or orange. The weather is similar to Mexico City where it’s a bit chilly in the morning and evenings, but gets super hot mid-day. It’s also a very safe city, making it ideal for female or solo travelers. Fun fact: a large majority of the population is retired U.S. expats. The culture here is definitely catering to Americans, but it is really one of the cutest places I’ve been to in Mexico and worth the trip over and over again.
GETTING TO SAN MIGUEL
Drive or Uber/DiDi: The drive is ~4-5 hours from Mexico City. I’ve driven here with a friend and once took a DiDi (same as Uber but sometimes cheaper) for ~$120. I think we got lucky because a friend warned us that most drivers wouldn’t make that trip.
Bus from Norte Bus Station in CDMX: There are multiple busses that go to/from Mexico City daily, and it’s cheap, ~$15 one way
Fly to Querétaro Airport: The flight is about an hour from Mexico City. It’s then ~1.5 hour drive to SMA from the airport.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Eat & Drink. See below.
Visit a Vineyard. San Miguel has recently been making a name for itself in the wine industry. There are a few vineyards just outside of the center of town. I visited San Francisco/San Lucas and loved it. We did a quick 30 minute tour and then a tasting paired with cheese and fruit. The people there were so nice and the grounds were super pretty. To get there you can catch a taxi from town, and then I’d recommend getting their number so they can pick you up. Otherwise, the staff at the vineyard can help you find a taxi - you’ll just have to wait 20-25 mins for one to come from town.
Tequila Tasting at Casa Dragones. This is still on my list. You can do a 45 or 50 min tequila tasting at their “house” in the middle of town for less than $100.
Go Horseback Riding. I haven’t made it to this yet, but there’s a ranch outside of town called Xotolar where you can do a day or half day of their ranch and horseback riding for some great views.
Catch Some Sun. Even in the winter it’s 75 degrees and sunny, so you’ll be able to lay out and get some color in San Miguel. To my knowledge, there are three nice hotels that have pools: Live Aqua (must be a guest), Rosewood, Hotel Matilda. Rosewood and Matilda offer day passes (I think ~$100/day), but usually only Monday-Thursday.
Visit Guanajuato. About 1.5 hours away is the capital of the state of Guanajuato, the town of Guanajuato. I haven’t been, but apparently it’s worth at least a day trip. I’ve been told that it’s beautiful and similar to SMA in many ways, but is more authentic in terms of Mexican culture. It’s also not known for being too safe, so just be aware of that.
Visit Querétaro. Another cute town close to San Miguel that is known for their plazas, churches, museums, architecture, restaurants, etc.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Coffee/Breakfast
PANIO Bakery. Stop by here for a fresh croissant, breakfast goodies, etc.
KI’BOK. For coffee, breakfast, working remotely. They have a rooftop and while I was working and having coffee, a lot of people were eating full breakfasts there, so it must have good food too.
Lavanda Coffee/Lavender Cafe. This place always has a line out front, so be sure to get there early (opens at 8:30am daily, closed on Sundays). It’s a great spot for breakfast or even just to pick up coffee and a little pastry. As the name suggests, they offer an option to add fresh lavender to your coffee.
La Ventana. Literally a window (“ventana”) on the street where you can grab coffee to go. They also have seating inside.
Umaran. Cute spot for your cup of joe, working remotely, and grabbing a fresh croissant.
For Drinks or a Meal
Luna Tapas Bar at The Rosewood. Rooftop with 360 views of San Miguel. Make sure to get here for sunset drinks.
Quince Restaurant. Rooftop in the center of town with views of two main churches. Their food is Asian fusion and they have delicious cocktails. It definitely gets busy so either get there early or be sure to make a reservation.
Áperi. LOVED this place. They are known for their unique dishes that make up their tasting menu. We went for Thanksgiving dinner and got the tasting menu with the cocktail/wine pairing. Everything was so good.
Bulla. A Spanish-style tapas restaurant. It’s cozy and everything we had was yummy. They also have a location in Mexico City and I can’t wait to check it out.
Fatima 7. Rooftop spot for cocktails with a view of one of the main churches.
La Mezcalería. Mezcal bar and really great restaurant. I went with the intention of having a cocktail, but ended up ordering the pulpo (octopus) as well. The chef delivered our plate and returned a few times to check on us. It was SO good.
Casa Buen Viaje. A very cool mezcal bar. It’s sort of like a speakeasy, dark, and super tiny. Go here for a nightcap.
Bovine. Walking in here is an experience in itself. The first floor has eclectic art and decor. The restaurant is an Australian steakhouse and it has a nice bar with lots of cocktail options and wine to pair with your meal.
San Agustin Cafe. Someone had recommended the Churros Rellenos when I first got to SMA it took me until my second return to town to find them. I’d highly recommend it for a late night snack/hot chocolate with Baileys. They have 3 types of hot chocolates: Mexican (chocolate and cinnamon), Spanish (dark and thick), French (light and sweet) and you should order one (or multiple) with the churros - you can also get them with Nutella. Don’t be discouraged when there is a line of people to get in. It’s worth the wait.
Cafe de Santos. Located on a corner in the heart of town, it sort of looks like an outdoor cafe in Paris. They have indoor space too, but sitting outside sipping wine you will feel like you are in France. I also went there one day for breakfast and the chilaquiles were amazing.
The Restaurant. A staple in San Miguel for years. It has a diverse menu from seasonal dishes to sushi. There’s a really cool bar tucked inside that I would love to get back to.
Andy’s Taco Truck. We unfortunately didn’t make it here, but this local taco spot is highly recommended.
La Coronela. We arrived into town late and this was the only place that was still open. Definitely a cool/no frills spot for late night drinks. They have tacos, but if you want a quesadilla or french fries, run across the street to the food truck and they’ll let you bring that food inside to eat while you drink.
WHERE TO STAY
Live Aqua. One of the most beautiful hotels I’ve stayed at with a unique pool that is a must-see. I basically lived at the pool (in January!) and in the bathtub in my room. Live Aqua has a number of restaurants (Zibu, Spice Market, etc.) and bars. Their spa is also a treat - I had such a great massage there and at the end they bring you to a small indoor pool to relax.
Selina. If you’ve followed my Tulum life, you may know that I love Selina properties. Selina caters to all types of travelers because they offer hostel rooms and also private, very nice rooms. My friend and I stayed in a standard room in San Miguel for a night until we realized we could upgrade for $40/night more to a loft. We lived in a huge space for a week with a kitchen, large dining room table, seating area, and king bed. Selina also has a co-working area with strong WiFi which is great for digital nomads.
The Rosewood. I haven’t stayed here, as it is a bit out of my budget, but it’s a great spot to at least visit for lunch or sunset drinks (Luna Tapas bar is a must).
Hotel Matilda. I haven’t stayed here either, but it looks very cool and they have a few nice bars (Monkey Bar, Moxi) and pool.
GETTING AROUND
If you are staying in the center of the city, everything is honestly within a 10 minute walk. If you travel outside of the city to another city or vineyard you can call Uber (but they are not too common) or hail a taxi on the street.
OTHER HOPEFULLY HELPFUL INFO
Everything pretty much closes at or around midnight (at least that was the case during the pandemic). If you’re looking for a nightclub/somewhere to go out late and dance then check out DUKE. The place has changed names over the years, but it’s fun if you’re looking to get out and dance. It’s only open on Friday and Saturdays from 10:30pm-4am.
xx Em
