Bacalar: Mexico’s Lagoon of Seven Colors
In search of a peaceful weekend getaway where you can relax on a boat in crystal blue waters? Look no further than Bacalar - a quiet oasis in Quintana Roo, ~2.5 hours from Tulum. Everyone says Bacalar is Tulum 10 years ago and will be just as developed as Tulum in a few years. I figured that would be the case given that Cancun, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum have all followed similar paths and this is the next one in line as you move further south. A number of prominent Tulum investors have already snatched up land or have begun developing properties in Bacalar as well. Unlike these communities though, Bacalar is located on a lagoon instead of the sea. This lagoon is the second largest body of water in Mexico and is known to have seven shades of blue colors, thanks to the sulfur content. There isn’t much wildlife because of the sulfur levels either - so you can enjoy the water without fear of sharks, crocodiles, large fish, anacondas, etc. Bacalar had been on my list since I arrived in Tulum four months ago, and I can say now that I finally made it, it was well worth the trip. I was just there for a weekend and have a lot more to see for next time, but here’s a quick recap.
GETTING TO BACALAR
To/From Tulum: You can rent a car for ~$50 USD/day, take a bus (I don’t know much about this, but it is likely the cheapest option), or book a taxi. I traveled to Bacalar with one friend and we took a taxi. It was $150 USD each way. We booked it through one of my taxi driver friends here, but your hotel could also organize this for you.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Go Out on a Boat. You go to Bacalar for the lagoon, so you’ll likely spend a good amount of time out on the water. We booked boats through our hotel with DayTour Bacalar. On Saturday we took a catamaran and then Sunday we took a sailboat with a motor. I would recommend taking a boat with a motor because if there is no wind you could be moving very slowly. We took the boat to the Sur (the south part of the lagoon) and spent the afternoon swimming, taking photos, and FaceTiming some friends.
Go Kayaking. Our hotel had kayaks, so we used them one morning and it was the perfect way to start the day. The water is crystal clear in most parts and not very deep.
Explore the Cenotes. There are ~10,000 cenotes in Yucatan, Mexico and they are all connected. 4 of them line the West side of Bacalar’s lagoon. From north to south they are La Bruja, Esmeralda, Cocolitos, and Azul.
Important Note on La Bruja: You won’t see any warning signs, but a female crocodile has lived alone in here for 15 years. She is responsible for a number of deaths and attacks over the years. This fact alone should keep you away, but if you need more convincing, there are also strong currents in this cenote that can pull you under and into the cenote system underground. If this happens, you’ll be ejected into the Cenote Azul about 9 days later. My friend and I weren’t aware of this, so we kayaked into the cenote, but I had a gut feeling about the place so we turned around pretty quickly. The name of the cenote (“La Bruja”) means witch, and there is a tale that a witch put a spell on the cenote years ago. I believe it and will stay far away from this place.
Swim in Los Rapidos. The rapids are an area of the lagoon that are lined with stromatolites. These organisms are only found in a few places around the world and are responsible for providing oxygen to the lagoon. They are very fragile and can be killed from the oil on our hands (so no touching!) or if the lagoon has too much wake (so boats and jetskis should be careful around them).
Hangout at Laguna Bonanza. We didn’t make it here because the entry was blocked by boats for now, but you can also get there by car. It’s supposed to be another nice area of beautiful blue water.
Visit Mahahaul. This is another popular town close to Bacalar but on the beach. We had hoped to make it here for a few hours before heading back to Tulum, but didn’t have enough time.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Macario. Chef Ricardo opened up this place after working at a number of the world’s best restaurants, three of which are in Mexico City (Pujol, Quintonil, and Maximo Bistro). The menu is small, but had enough variety and each dish was packed with flavor. We had the fish of the day and lobster risotto, followed up with a dessert that I cannot remember the name of, but it was amazing. Don’t miss out on the cocktail menu - they are unique and delicious. The space is essentially like a large backyard with tables far enough apart to enjoy your meal as if you had the place to yourself. The staff is super friendly and the owner/chef, Ricardo, is there everyday. He joined us for the second half of our meal and experience was not only educational, but a ton of fun.
La Playita. Great spot on the water with a variety of options from pizza and pasta to Mexican tacos, Greek pitas, Thai soup, and even Argentinian empanadas.
La Cabanita. We ordered food in from this place and it was good, especially for take out.
Nixtamal. This place was on my list, but we didn’t make it. I had read reviews and it was listed on a number of other blogs.
Damajuana. A mezcal cocktail bar that we also didn’t make it to, but it looks so cool and will for sure get there next time.
Mango y Chile. Another rec that I had seen on a number of blogs, but didn’t make it there this time.
WHERE TO STAY
Casa Bakal. We stayed at this waterfront property for two nights - one night in the main house and the second night in a 1BD bungalow on the water. Both rooms were great and the staff was super nice. The property is conveniently located on the main strip along the lagoon, the Hotel Zone, and they have free kayaks for guests.
Casa Hormiga. We didn’t stay here and it’s not located on the lagoon, but it looks so cute and I’m hoping to check it out next time.
Habitas. The owners of Habitas Tulum are opening a location in Bacalar. The property is still under construction but should be completed between this summer and the end of the year. I’m excited for this one.
OTHER HOPEFULLY HELPFUL INFO
I wouldn’t advise wandering into the jungle alone on either side of the lagoon. Jaguars can still be found to the West, and there’s much more to the East. If you’re interested in encountering crocodiles or anacondas, feel free to head through the Pirates Canal (actual route pirates took) and toward the sea where the waters there are much darker and filled with fish for these reptiles.
Bacalar, I hope to see you again soon.
xx Em
